Day 23 – October 13, 2016 – Courtauld Gallery, Temple Church, St. Paul’s

October 22, 2016 Ann Boland

Heading up the ancient stairs at Temple Church.  Unfortunately, nothing much at the top.  More photos follow the post. — Heading up the ancient stairs at Temple Church. Unfortunately, nothing much at the top. More photos follow the post.

We have our first battle casualty today, Norah is taking a day off to rest and relax. Ed and I beaver on, but we are also wearing down.

First up is the Courtauld Gallery – it’s small and specializes in Impressionist and post-Impressionist art, not a keen interest for us. But we do enjoy their medieval and renaissance pieces, and the lovely building that houses the collection, Somerset House.

Somerset House is huge. The Gallery occupies only a small section in the front. Somerset House began as the home of the British Academy of Art, then went through various incarnations as government offices was recently remodeled, and is now totally devoted to art history and restoration as part of the University of London. The square in the middle of the compound must be tempting to developers as it sits right next to Westminster. Fortunately, the property is protected by the National Trust.

Next we walked back to the Inns of Court, to visit the Temple Church. On the way we passed the Courts of Justice and dropped in for visit. Anyone can enter a courtroom, unless it is marked as private. Brexit hearings were going on, but we could only get into the overflow rooms, viewing a TV transmission. We did visit an appeals hearing about a media distribution agreement.

Temple Church dates back to the 11th century and is lovely inside. Like most of the churches we visit, it is active, but this is not a parish. It is part of the Queen’s churches that report directly to her without management by a bishop. The chapels within the Tower of London are also part of this group.

St. Paul’s Cathedral, just a short walk back in the direction of Westminster, is our next stop. We do lunch there – nothing to write home about, so I won’t. I discover that our London Card does not cover St. Paul’s and it will cost £36 for us to visit. Normally, I would pay, but we are worn out, so walk around the outside, stick our heads into a side chapel and call it a visit. Home on the tube to rest because we have theater in the evening.

“The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-time” is as good a play as it was a book. It’s difficult to make a book into a two plus hour play because of the need for radical simplification. Usually a narrator is involved and in this case, they have Christopher’s teacher reading from his journal to drive the plot. It all works. The sets are magical. The dramatic arc is plausible and the ending is sad and realistic. The National Theatre is touring this play in the U.S. from now through the end of the year. If it comes to your city, don’t miss it.

Somerset House, home of the Courtault Gallery

Paintings from the top: Daddi's Crucifixion with Saints, Rubens's Moses with Serpent, Seurat's Woman with a Powder Puff, Manet's Bar at the Folies-Bergere, Lucien Freud's Girl with Roses. Freud is a favorite artist of ours.  This is a very earl… — Paintings from the top: Daddi's Crucifixion with Saints, Rubens's Moses with Serpent, Seurat's Woman with a Powder Puff, Manet's Bar at the Folies-Bergere, Lucien Freud's Girl with Roses. Freud is a favorite artist of ours. This is a very early work painted in 1942. He was active until he died in 2011.

Courts of Justice buildings at the London Bar.  We could not take photos inside. — Courts of Justice buildings at the London Bar. We could not take photos inside.

Temple Church, from top: outside, inside and view of the rotunda from the balcony shows graves of the Knights Templar.

Fabulous staging at The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-time

Day 22 – October 12, 2016 – Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre

October 20, 2016 Ann Boland

In front of Shakespeare's Globe Theatre - more photos follow the post

The idea of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre did not excite me. After all, it’s a reconstruction. But the experience of it blew me away -- one of our best days in the trip. The original early 16th century theater district was on the south side of the Thames, the swampy side, populated with bars, brothels and warehouses. But, it wasn’t long before even Queen Elizabeth 1st was barging across from Westminster to enjoy the plays. And even though the original Globe burned down, it was quickly rebuilt and thrived until the Cromwell’s Puritan government shut down all theaters, Catholic churches, and brothels – or tried to shut them down. Brits ousted the Puritans after ten years due to their inability to govern effectively, and British theatre has thrived ever since.

Today, Shakespeare’s Globe sits almost hidden amidst plane trees on the banks of the Thames. London has become a city of flagrant skyscrapers that thrust upwards from the horizontal plane of six to ten story buildings. Where does this three story theatre figure when the eye hits The Gherkin, The Shard, 20 Fenchurch – even the first skyscraper, Centre Point, that is getting a massive overhaul? This theatre fits beautifully because just as the buildings emerge, so do Shakespeare’s plays. This is not a museum to the playwright. It is a breeding ground for vibrant theatre using the DNA of the 16th century and producing experiences as striking and engaging as modern London.

We purchased tickets for a play called Imogen. Shakespeare did not write Imogen. He wrote Cymbeline. Imogen is Cymbeline’s daughter, just one of the characters. Globe Artistic Director Emma Rice and Director Matthew Dunster created a whole new play. As the review in The Observer said, “Go for what this says it is – a play called Imogen – and you will hear a taut, disturbing and intelligent melodrama, shot through with some of Shakespeare’s most neglected beauties: “melted from the smallness of a gnat to air”. You will see crystal-clear action and, pumping behind it, the emotion that fuels the drama, some of the best dancing on the London stage.” If you went expecting the authentic Cymbeline, you would leave disappointed. We were walking on air as we left.

Getting to and from Shakespeare’s Globe is a beautiful journey. You leave the tube at St. Paul’s, continue half-way round the Cathedral to St. Paul’s Passageway. That joins to Millennium Bridge (pedestrians only) that deposits you at the feet of the theatre. We lunched at a Turkish restaurant, Tas Pide. Good food, reminiscent of our Turkish holiday, but made me long for the pides of Anatolia. A pide is a boat-shaped pizza. We retraced our journey home, full of the marvels of London.

Through St. Paul's Passageway towards the Thames

Crossing Millennium Bridge - foot traffic only

Interior of the theatre set for a more traditional play.

Our view, sitting just behind the groundlings, who stand.  The "shower curtains" surrounding the stage were used to good effect, giving an industrial feel to the production. — Our view, sitting just behind the groundlings, who stand. The "shower curtains" surrounding the stage were used to good effect, giving an industrial feel to the production.

Montage from Imogen:  Imogen and her husband, Posthumus; King Cymbeline and the Queen; war scene effectively used flying to give more action on the small stage; the ensemble. — Montage from Imogen: Imogen and her husband, Posthumus; King Cymbeline and the Queen; war scene effectively used flying to give more action on the small stage; the ensemble.

The seats are hard benches with no backs.  We rented cushions and seatbacks.  Comfortable. — The seats are hard benches with no backs. We rented cushions and seatbacks. Comfortable.

Day 21 – October 11, 2016 – Museum of London, Inns of Court and Wyndham Theatre – a day of overkill

October 18, 2016 Ann Boland

London burns - 1666.  Painting by Jan Griffier the Elder in 1675 shows Newgate in foreground with old St. Paul's burning in the back.  More photos follow the text. — London burns - 1666. Painting by Jan Griffier the Elder in 1675 shows Newgate in foreground with old St. Paul's burning in the back. More photos follow the text.

We arrive at the Museum of London as it opens at ten am. Forewarned by the attendants, Ed and I head for the special exhibit on the London Fire of 1666 before the school children arrive. Norah delves into other parts of the Museum. Good exhibit, especially the part that illustrates where the fire began and how far it spread. Then the children arrive – probably third or fourth graders – and they are set free to roam the floor because it’s a “discovery” exhibit. Yikes, they invade like William the Conqueror and his Norman hordes.

The book London by Rutherfurd is the Museum of London brought to life. He wrote it with their guidance. It was so informative to see the Museum’s relics and interpretative displays. And, as you go through the Roman section, suddenly there is a large window and you are overlooking the original Roman city wall. Ok, is was rebuilt from rubble, but the effect is stunning. For any history buff, this museum is a must. Like most museums organized on a chronological basis, the modern detritus lacks the editing of time, so to me is mostly junk. It’s always interesting to see what survives hundreds of years. Not likely to be videos of pop stars.

We lunched at a nice restaurant next to the museum, fortifying ourselves before our walking tour of the Inns of Court. The Inns were a revelation in so many ways. They are BIG, covering acres. We walked through all four: Gray’s Inn, Lincoln’s Inn, Inner Temple and Middle Temple. You would never realize the complexity of their quarters viewing the small gateways off Chancery Row or Fleet Street. Every bit of the tour enlightened past reading and all future reading. Though I suspected that Rowling based Harry Potter’s Hogwarts on the Inns, it is clear to see how cleverly she used the history of the Inns to create the four houses, represented by their emblems. Now I need to find a contact in the US who has a barrister contact in the UK who can invite me to dine at one of the halls. We did not have time to go through the ancient church at Middle Temple, originally founded by the Knights Templar, so we will return.

We are so exhausted, that we cab home, as we have theater tonight. Quick dinner and Ed and I walk down Tottenham Court Road to the theatre. Norah is not feeling up to yet another outing, so she puts her feet up for a good rest. Tonight it’s Ian McKellan and Patrick Stewart in Pinter’s “No Man’s Land.” Excellent. The play is not for everyone. A bit of Samuel Becket shows through this 1974 revival. There is malice, humor – just one set and four actors. What a pleasure to watch fine actors deliver well-crafted lines, and we had great seats.

From the Museum of London, clockwise from upper left:  view of the Roman city wall, first bridge over the Thames, wooden pontoons that floated with the tide, polished mace-head (probably sacrificial) found in the Thames, elephants used by Roman… — From the Museum of London, clockwise from upper left: view of the Roman city wall, first bridge over the Thames, wooden pontoons that floated with the tide, polished mace-head (probably sacrificial) found in the Thames, elephants used by Romans conquering the Celts - like Pizarro and the Incas only bigger and scarier than horses.

One of many amusing costumes in the Museum of London.  Yes, some lucky lady wore this. — One of many amusing costumes in the Museum of London. Yes, some lucky lady wore this.

Model of the St. Paul's Cathedral prior to the fire.  Note the early Romanesque small original churches on the left.  The new cathedral, which will you see in future photos, was designed by Christopher Wren and is huge and austere, not Got… — Model of the St. Paul's Cathedral prior to the fire. Note the early Romanesque small original churches on the left. The new cathedral, which will you see in future photos, was designed by Christopher Wren and is huge and austere, not Gothic.

Staple Inn, built in mid 16th Century and still in use on Holborn Street.  Originally lodging for visiting wool merchants (staplers), it became an inn for law students.  Today, it's offices. — Staple Inn, built in mid 16th Century and still in use on Holborn Street. Originally lodging for visiting wool merchants (staplers), it became an inn for law students. Today, it's offices.

Entrance to Gray's Inn is portal in white facade on right.  You walk right by these if you don't know what they are. — Entrance to Gray's Inn is portal in white facade on right. You walk right by these if you don't know what they are.

Interior Gray's Inn - like all four Inns, hundreds of chambers housing barristers and students are built around interior courts.  The Inns provide all school and OJT for barristers in the UK.  They also house all the judges. — Interior Gray's Inn - like all four Inns, hundreds of chambers housing barristers and students are built around interior courts. The Inns provide all school and OJT for barristers in the UK. They also house all the judges.

Dining hall, Middle Temple.  All Inns have chambers, dining halls, chapels and gardens. — Dining hall, Middle Temple. All Inns have chambers, dining halls, chapels and gardens.

Entrance to Gray's Inn Garden.  Public is allowed entry at midday.  Lovely urban oases. — Entrance to Gray's Inn Garden. Public is allowed entry at midday. Lovely urban oases.

Crypts under Lincoln's Inn Chapel.  A place to bury the deceased barristers and judges from the Inn, conduct private discussions with clients and colleagues, and for some impoverished women, a place to leave babies who were adopted by the Inn, … — Crypts under Lincoln's Inn Chapel. A place to bury the deceased barristers and judges from the Inn, conduct private discussions with clients and colleagues, and for some impoverished women, a place to leave babies who were adopted by the Inn, educated and placed in sustainable positions.

Temple Church of the Inner and Middle Temple dates to the 12th century and the Knights Templar.  This was originally their UK HQ, until they were dissolved in the mid-14th century. — Temple Church of the Inner and Middle Temple dates to the 12th century and the Knights Templar. This was originally their UK HQ, until they were dissolved in the mid-14th century.

Temple courtyard, two Knights Templar riding one horse, their supposed practice of economy. Pity the horse.  The London Bar, rising from the middle of Fleet Street, represents the divide between the royals in Westminster and the protected … — Temple courtyard, two Knights Templar riding one horse, their supposed practice of economy. Pity the horse. The London Bar, rising from the middle of Fleet Street, represents the divide between the royals in Westminster and the protected wealthy merchants of the City of London.

Symbols for two of the Inns - griffin for Gray's Inn and Pegasus for Inner Temple.

Obviously signs for uninformed Americans.

Where you purchase your wigs and robes - gently used ones available at a shop round the corner.

Ian McKellan and Patrick Stewart in Harold Pinter's "No Man's Land".

Day 20 – October 10, 2016 – Hampton Court Palace

October 15, 2016 Ann Boland

Ed relaxing at the fountain in the Base Court - more photos follow the post.

We planned to take the train to Hampton Court and the boat back down the Thames. First thing we found on arriving is that the boat trips ended the first week of October. So I miss the opportunity of pretending that I’m a 16th century member of court, leaving the palace and returning to London, being rowed in a small barge. Pity.

The rest of our visit was magical. This is how the royals lived at leisure. Henry’s rooms are large and brash, just like the king. William of Orange’s rooms are more refined, looking onto lovely gardens. The art collections are splendid. There are more notes on the individual photos.

Home on the train, dinner chez nous.

Norah enjoying the free newspaper they give our morning and evening at all transport stops.  A different paper each morning and evening.  Print media still has lots of legs in the UK. — Norah enjoying the free newspaper they give our morning and evening at all transport stops. A different paper each morning and evening. Print media still has lots of legs in the UK.

Approaching Hampton Court, on the Base Court

Ceiling of the main entrance gatehouse.  Most of the rooms from Henry's time have magnificent carved wooden ceilings. — Ceiling of the main entrance gatehouse. Most of the rooms from Henry's time have magnificent carved wooden ceilings.

Henry's Great Hall, surrounded with huge Flemish tapestries.  This was where the staff and lesser visitors ate; the king usually dined in his quarters. — Henry's Great Hall, surrounded with huge Flemish tapestries. This was where the staff and lesser visitors ate; the king usually dined in his quarters.

Elephants from one of the Flemish tapestries next to the elephants from a huge Rubens painting at the National.  They were both created in the late 16th century. — Elephants from one of the Flemish tapestries next to the elephants from a huge Rubens painting at the National. They were both created in the late 16th century.

Beautiful painting of a page looking through a window, artfully displayed in shadows.

The Queen's Staircase (Queen Mary, wife of William), cobbled together by me to show the size and beauty.

Willam's dining room - intimate, refined.

Door handle with monogram of William and Mary.

Down the alley outside the enormous kitchens that served the palace.

Like the royals, we ate well, but surrounded by the hoi polloi.

Alas, not a Tudor red rose, but a lovely pink with a hint of scent.

Commuter bikes outside our flat.  Every morning the rack is empty and by ten am, it is full, then empty by seven pm.  Santander (national bank of Portugal) purchased the naming rights, so their name is everywhere in a positive way. — Commuter bikes outside our flat. Every morning the rack is empty and by ten am, it is full, then empty by seven pm. Santander (national bank of Portugal) purchased the naming rights, so their name is everywhere in a positive way.

Day 19 – October 9, 2016 – Almost to Westminster Abbey and Liberty of London

October 14, 2016 Ann Boland

Tudor style at Liberty built in the 1920's - more photos follow the post

I’ve never been to Westminster Abbey, but am not interested in a tour of all the famous dead people. Would rather go to Church there and enjoy the choir, organ, sermon, etc. So, we charted our bus route – one bus from near Alfred Place all the way to Westminster. As we went to board, the driver said, “Only making two more stops, ma’am, then all the transport into that area stop for the rest of the morning. Half-marathon, ya know.” Welcome to the weekend in London.

We dragged ourselves home to read The Sunday Times. Then Ed headed out to Kew Gardens while Norah and I walked over to Liberty of London – one of my favorite stores. We arrived a bit early and while enjoying a coffee across from the entrance, were entertained by a couple “sleeping rough” right out of our cafe window. They didn’t appear to be roughing it too much – mattress, duvet, bags of food, ciggies, folks bringing them cups of coffee – and a Jack Russell terrier who spurned offers of food because he seemed to be well fed.

Liberty is such a beautiful store – inside and out. In years past, I’ve been able to purchase clothes, fabric, tchotchkes, at reasonable prices for the quality. Now, it’s way upmarket, the least expensive thing I found being a small box of plain paperclips for £4. Not that I need to purchase anything. When I return home, I’ll enjoy all of past purchases that are still lovely and used often.

We had a mediocre lunch at the Liberty Café. Norah had eggs benedict with tough bacon and I had a bowl of soup – leek and potato, not exciting. After, we strolled (really fought our way through the crowds) up Oxford, picked up a few groceries at the M&S Food Court, which is a lovely, and as chock full of goodies, as I remember. Then home, because Sunday evening, all the UK watches the weekly dance-off on Strictly Come Dancing.

The busses around city center are new, clean and run constantly - except on the weekends.

Interior of Liberty of London - what a beautiful store.

In my "good old days" at Liberty, there was a cafeteria in the lower level that served beautiful food at reasonable prices.  Had my first summer pudding there.  You never forget your first summer pudding... — In my "good old days" at Liberty, there was a cafeteria in the lower level that served beautiful food at reasonable prices. Had my first summer pudding there. You never forget your first summer pudding...

Ed enjoyed Kew Gardens.  I went twenty-five years ago and that will hold me for a lifetime. — Ed enjoyed Kew Gardens. I went twenty-five years ago and that will hold me for a lifetime.

We haven't a clue who these contestants are, but they dance so much better than the U.S. contestants, have more fun and the show is not so repetitive.  No wonder it's such a hit. — We haven't a clue who these contestants are, but they dance so much better than the U.S. contestants, have more fun and the show is not so repetitive. No wonder it's such a hit.

Day 18, October 8, 2016 – Royal Court Theater – welcome to the weekend in London

October 13, 2016 Ann Boland

Odd-see, the dog - star of the play - more photos follow the post

With the working crowd hopefully doing family things at home, we look forward to having the city to ourselves – wrong. Weekend London is thronging with families and tourists. Everything is packed. We took the morning to relax, heading out to the Royal Court Theatre at Sloane Square for a one pm booking in their Café and a 2:30 curtain time. Ed headed out for a batchelor visit to The British Museum where he enjoyed the Sunken Cities: Egypt's Lost Cities.

We were to take our local tube to Embankment, change for the District or Circle lines and voila, Sloan Square – wrong. District and Circle Lines closed at Embankment all weekend for repairs. We hopped on a bus heading for Sloan Square, and it gets slower and slower, then stops and the driver announces he is getting off to make way for the new driver who is on his way. Hmmmm, so I ask how long a wait and am assured it won’t be more than five minutes, but there are diversions around Sloan Square, so we will be further delayed. We hop a taxi, who takes a most circuitous route and we arrive 15 minutes late. So much for public transportation. Nice enough lunch, nothing to write home about.

The play, Father Comes Home from the Wars (Parts 1,2,3) by Suzan Lori-Parks premiered at The Public Theater in New York in 2014. Ms. Parks won the Pulitzer Prize for theater in 2002. The London reviews called the play imaginative, playful and theatrical. We found the first two parts long and somewhat contrived. However, Part 3 was wonderful, mostly because of the introduction of a talking dog. The main protagonist is Hero, a slave who fights for the South, serving his master. He fears freedom because he is literally worth more as a slave than as a freeman. Hero is not much of a hero and the play ends with his fellow slaves leaving the farm to head North while Hero remains. Parts 4 – 9 have not yet been produced. A good, but not great, afternoon of theater.

Norah and I call our friend, Addie Lee, for a car home. Lucky for Ed, The British Museum is a five minute walk from our apartment.

Trotters and sulkies passing the bus and further tying up traffic on Saturday.  Never could find anything about them. — Trotters and sulkies passing the bus and further tying up traffic on Saturday. Never could find anything about them.

Norah enjoys the largest and sweetest apple cider at the Cafe.

Day 17 – October 7, 2016 – Highgate Cemetery

October 13, 2016 Ann Boland

Waiting for the tube at our stop.  Trains arrive every four minutes or so.  And they are comfortable, unlike the CTA.  Using our canes always assures us of a seat.  More photos follow the post. — Waiting for the tube at our stop. Trains arrive every four minutes or so. And they are comfortable, unlike the CTA. Using our canes always assures us of a seat. More photos follow the post.

Ed always raved about this cemetery and how “creepy” it was, with trees growing out of graves, ivy covering everything – the stuff of horror movies. He visited almost 30 years ago. Well, no more.

We took the tube north to the appropriate stop, knowing it would be a long walk, first uphill, then downhill to the cemetery. It is “Highgate” after all. Grabbed a quick lunch at an Italian restaurant and began our climb. It’s a quick turn at the top of the hill onto Squires Lane and back down the hill to the cemetery. Lunch all worked off. We could have grabbed a bus, but we hadn’t sussed (all of my British colloquialisms are coming back to me) those out yet.

You must book a tour to enter and we did that well in advance. Nice volunteer guide, older gent (ok, maybe five years older than I), who led us through the various parts. Highgate was founded around 1830, along with six other cemeteries spread across London to handle disposition of the middle-class dead who could afford to pay for a plot. Aristocrats are usually buried in chapels or crypts on their estates; no one could tell me how they disposed of the poor (dumped in the Thames?). Interesting factoids about the depth of the plots, as families are buried six or seven deep, and some markers seemed to have even more names. The cemetery is still in use. Anyone who can afford to pay (Upwards of £20,000) can purchase a plot, and there are even a few spaces available in the large multi-alcove crypts that hold cremated remains.

The families of the deceased, if any remain, maintain the cemetery, and volunteers for The Friends of Highgate Cemetery, who now own it. There aren’t many creepy sections today. It’s lush with trees, shrubs and wildflowers, all naturally grown. Originally it was grass and gardens. But, if you looked down the many paths, you would see that overgrowth still obscures the graves. The Friends have hundreds of bird houses throughout and encourage all the wild things that now call Highgate home.

Since we passed entrances to Waterlow Park on both our journey up and down, I asked the attendant if we could cut through the park on our way home. Takes away over half of the climb and the descent. You would think the directions to Highgate would mention this, but they don’t. So now you know.

Home in time for our favorite telly programs, dinner, reading, etc.

Walking up and up Highgate Street.  You can barely see the City of London in the distance at the bottom of the street. — Walking up and up Highgate Street. You can barely see the City of London in the distance at the bottom of the street.

Do they sell a Mitsubishi Barbarian in the U.S.?

Walking down typical path between graves.  They stretch many ranks back from the path. — Walking down typical path between graves. They stretch many ranks back from the path.

One of many individual crypts.  This one owned for a former Jewish family.  Only Christians allowed in the cemetery, with a special plot for reserved for those not Church of Christ. — One of many individual crypts. This one owned for a former Jewish family. Only Christians allowed in the cemetery, with a special plot for reserved for those not Church of Christ.

This man owned many traveling menageries - perhaps the lion looks content because he ate his master???

One of the newer graves.  Famous name, but not the composer. — One of the newer graves. Famous name, but not the composer.

Down a path on the west side of the cemetery, where many the famous communists, including Karl Marx, are buried.  We didn't pay them a visit. — Down a path on the west side of the cemetery, where many the famous communists, including Karl Marx, are buried. We didn't pay them a visit.

Day 16 – October 6, 2016 – National Gallery and National Portrait Gallery

October 12, 2016 Ann Boland

Van Goth, from his series Crabs.  I have never seen any of this series.  The colors here do not begin to do justice to the actual painting.  Many more photos follow the post. — Van Goth, from his series Crabs. I have never seen any of this series. The colors here do not begin to do justice to the actual painting. Many more photos follow the post.

Today Ed and I are up and out for the National Gallery and Portrait Gallery at Trafalgar Square. Simple tube ride down to Leicester Square. I visited the National 30+ years ago – my sole memory is the huge, fleshy Rueben’s oils. So this was like a first visit and everything was to my taste. It’s actually a manageable space. You could trot through it in three hours or so, but I’m a pokey museum person. Because we visit museums differently, Ed and I split up and agreed to meet at the entrance two hours later. I’ve assembled a montage of my favorites below this post, so you will know what appealed to me. At the end of our two hours, when we compared what we liked the most, our lists were almost the same.

St. Martin in the Fields Church is right across Trafalgar, so we popped in for a look around and then down to the crypts below for an excellent lunch.

Then back across the street to the National Portrait Gallery. Having just read "London" by Edward Rutherfurd, this was a visit with all my Tudor and Stuart friends. We only made it up to the Victorians and I was finished.

Can’t remember what we did the rest of this day. Certainly we saw the Antiques Road Tour and whatever Strictly Come Dancing insights were on the telly, ate, read, and collapsed in bed.

Ride up from the tube stop - dizzying heights.

Buskers in front of the National Gallery.  I still can't figure out how Yoda is supported. — Buskers in front of the National Gallery. I still can't figure out how Yoda is supported.

A favorite painter - Zurbran's St. Francis

Seen many times in books, first time in person - Manet's Execution of the Emperor Maxillian

Pondering the greats at the National Portrait Gallery

Early 18th century portrait of the Sharpe family orchestra.  So much fun. — Early 18th century portrait of the Sharpe family orchestra. So much fun.

Day 15, October 5, 2016 – Cardiff to London

October 9, 2016 Ann Boland

We're so early the food court is not open at the services plaza - more photos follow the post

Up at 4 am to be on our way by 5. We were actually underway at 5:30. It’s a three hour drive and we must have the car back to Enterprise by 10 am. We allow lots of time for getting lost and a bite of breakfast at the services stop just after we leave Wales. Well guess what? Most of the shops at the stop don’t open until 7 am and we arrive at 6:30. I was able to snag a salad in the news shop, Norah a tea and crumpet at the coffee shop and the breakfast buffet took pity on Ed and prepared a fried egg and ham bun for him. We all came away happy.

All uneventful until we approach Heathrow. Our navigation system wants to take us to terminal three, though the rental cars are by terminal five. Finally a kind Enterprise employee guides us in via phone after several “Groundhog’s Day” passes around the terminals. We make it exactly at ten am!

Addison Lee (fondly called Addie Lee) is the recommended car service and they have a nice mini-van to us in ten minutes and we are off for phase two of our journey – London.
Our flat is just off Tottenham Court Road, up from Oxford Street and the tall City Centre Building. I feel comfortable here because it is close to where I used to work and stay when with Video Arts. One block from the Goodge Street tube stop. The flat itself has wonderful large windows overlooking the intersection of Albert Place and School Street, thankfully pretty quiet. Living, dining, kitchen all in one el and two Spartan, tiny bedrooms and similar baths. These flats get tired in a hurry as they change occupants weekly, none of them with pride of ownership. But it is fine for our purposes and the management company is attentive to our needs.

First stop is a grocery store, this time Sainsbury’s, just to mix it up. It is not nearly as nice a Tesco – and there is one of those just a block in the other direction. We won’t starve… and there is also an M&S nearby.

Though we spend most of our down time reading, writing and sorting photos, we have become hooked on Antique Roadshow Tour. Monday through Friday at 4:30 to 5:15. Strictly Come Dancing rules the airwaves. There are associated shows every day of the week, interviewing stars, watching rehearsals – the UK is still besotted with this. We have “real” TV at this flat, with loads of worthless channels. In St. Lythan’s, we only have about five semi-worthless channels.

We retire early to our monastic cells, thankful that Ed won’t have to drive anymore and that we returned with car with nary a scratch.

Like a band of gypsies outside the Enterprise Car Rental at Heathrow

View of 38 Alfred Place - ours is the first floor with the large windows

View out our window - great neighborhood, close to everything.

Day 14, October 4, 2016 – Dyffryn Gardens, St. Lythans

October 9, 2016 Ann Boland

Magnificent dahlias - more photos follow the post

Just a short walk down the lane from Southwinds is this magnificent stately house and gardens. Wendy, our hostess, recommended the gardens, but did not mention the house. It was not open on the day we were there, a shame. History of the location dates back to the 7th century. The current house dates from the late 19th century and the gardens designed and constructed in the early 20th century. The owner, John Cory, was a famous amateur botanist who collected species the world over. His landscape architect was Thomas Mawson. The gardens are the best I have ever seen. They represent a grand combination of formality and planned rambling masses of flowers, shrubs and trees.

That’s our only outing for the day as we are preparing for our 4 am “up and out” drive back to Heathrow tomorrow to turn in the car and head into London.

Grounds are host to many farm animals and kitchen gardens.

Day 13, October 4, 2016 – My apologies to Cardiff

October 8, 2016 Ann Boland

Cheese shop and cafe in the Queen's Arcade, Cardiff - more photos follow the post

When we took the bus tour around Cardiff on our first visit, I dismissed the city as bland and lifeless. Our second visit totally reversed that image. Busses cannot enter the city center. It is a huge pedestrian area – teeming with people, packed solid with eating places – truly designed for metropolitan living at its best. Surrounding this old area is all the new, reclaimed Cardiff Bay area, featuring new and converted buildings that house all the offices. Population boomed in the last ten years, adding about 40,000 for a total of around 350,000 within the city. We did not see much of an immigrant population in the city center around lunch hour, but as we drove home, there were many school children of black and brown color.

Norah and I spent the morning shopping. Cardiff is the arcade capital of the UK. Lots of lovely shops and I scored a scarf at the Oxfam Store. Love those bargains. We did mid-morning tea and Welsh cakes to pick ourselves up from shopping. Ed spent his time learning that most things he wanted to visit, The Cardiff Museum, the Tower at the Cardiff Castle, close on Monday.

Lunch at Jamie Oliver’s Italian restaurant. Lovely food. Ed ordered a starter of mushrooms fritte, Norah a nice bread assortment. I had quinoa and lentils, this time with beets and avocado. Norah ordered shrimp scampi and Ed a pasta with veal ragu. Dessert was the sweetest small strawberries with just a touch of frozen yogurt.

Three scenes of Cardiff City Centre:  from left - down an arcade, street buskers, view down to St. John's Church — Three scenes of Cardiff City Centre: from left - down an arcade, street buskers, view down to St. John's Church

The modern area that surrounds the City Centre

Jamie Oliver's Italian at St. David's Mall

Back to the Fishguard legend of Jemima.  Found this model of a late 18th century redcoat.  It's possible that starving French soldiers could have seen Jemima as a soldier.  She certainly acted the part. — Back to the Fishguard legend of Jemima. Found this model of a late 18th century redcoat. It's possible that starving French soldiers could have seen Jemima as a soldier. She certainly acted the part.

Home again to Southwinds where Ed got this shot of a tiny wren who has been serenading us each day - taking a bath in the mossy birdbath.  Look for a small bird head in the center of the photo. — Home again to Southwinds where Ed got this shot of a tiny wren who has been serenading us each day - taking a bath in the mossy birdbath. Look for a small bird head in the center of the photo.

Day 12, October 3, 2016 – Lazy Sunday

October 6, 2016 Ann Boland

Enjoying The Sunday Times - more photos follow the post

Safely home from our trip, we only venture to Tesco, purchase The Sunday Times, and hunker down for a glorious day at Southwinds. We love this place. It is home.

Two stories of fabulous shopping and a tea shoppe

Wonderful political cartoons, this one of Ken Clarke

Day 11, October 1, 2016 – Around Fishguard, aborted kayaking and back to Southwinds

October 4, 2016 Ann Boland

Beautiful, friendly kitty living outdoors at Pentower - more photos follow the blog.

Goal today is to kill time until our 2 pm kayaking. Leisurely breakfast, then hanging around Pentower, trying not to become pests. We head a few hundred yards into town. Our first stop is City Hall, where the 30 meter long tapestry of the Last Invasion of Britain – 1797 - is mounted. The project commemorates the bicentennial and is the work of 20+ local stitchers.

The tapestry is full of folklore and humor. The two sections in the photos show the starving French troops raiding the local homes and the farmers coming to the aid of the infantry. The second section shows Jemina, local folk heroine who captured twelve French soldiers. Seems the French mistook her for a British redcoat, her local costume so resembling the military garb. And, she is fearsome. The British were ultimately victorious. We hit the Saturday Market on the first level of City Hall and score a bounty of homemade Welsh pastries and quiche.

Lunch at local pub, then down to the Lower Harbor to meet with Kayak King. Cancelled! Wind too strong. I’m not disappointed. It’s one of those things that I will enjoy once underway, but don’t look forward to struggling into an ill-fitting wetsuit, fighting the current, etc. Ed is disappointed. Norah was going to read in the car and laugh at us, so she is content. And, we don’t have to make the two plus hour drive back to St. Lythans in the dark – a real bonus.

Easy drive, in and out of rain showers, as we chase rainbows leading the way East.

French or Bigleaf Hydrangea in front of Pentower

Fishguard Tapestry celebrating the bicentennial of The Last Invasion of Britain 1797

Today a half pint of Brains, the local brew.

Sign on the women's loo, seems to indicate this is the place to give artificial respiration to a torso, or other deviant behavior...

Day 10, September 30, 2016 – Around Fishguard and St. Davids

October 3, 2016 Ann Boland

Sunrise over the Irish Sea from Pentower patio - more photos below the post

Mary’s breakfast at Pentower is splendid. Perfect poached eggs with lightly brazed cherry tomatoes for me, preceded by an assortment of perfect fruit: sliced peaches, kiwi, papaya, topped with smashed raspberries and a dab of yogurt. Tell me how does she have each piece of fruit at the perfect ripeness? Norah and Ed did a more traditional English breakfast with bacon, eggs, toast, sausage, potato cakes, then the fruit, cereal, etc. We were good to go for at least another two hours before we eat again.

We retrace our steps about ten miles to the little town of Nevern and the ancient church of St. Brynach, a Christian missionary who arrived from Ireland in 540 CE. He started a monastery on this site, lived a holy life, and converted lots of local folk. The church we visit today is from the 13th century, beautifully tended inside and out, a working Episcopal parish.

Then we are off to honor the pagans. Stone circles and burial mounds are found throughout England, Stonehenge being the most famous and the largest stone circle. Though today’s Druids like to celebrate at these sites, they are not Druidic, but date from unknown people far, far earlier. We visit Pentre Ifam, a large burial site set on a high hill with a distant view of the sea. Today, we see only the gigantic stones, but when created, smaller rocks covered the entire skeleton we see today so they were a burial “mound”. The bodies were interred in the large constructed cave. They are thought to be “group burial sites”, not royal. Impressive.

Back to the Christians and a visit to St. David’s Cathedral, in the town of St. David's, further down the coast beyond Fishgard – one of the finest in England, and a pilgrimage site since the 12th century. David was born in 500 CE, founded a monastery on this site, lived such a holy life that when he died, the church was “filled with angels”. The cathedral is huge, with glorious additions that all seem to harmonize with the early construction. And, we were lucky enough to walk into the organist practicing on the pipe organ. What wonderful noise in the praise of God.

In the afternoon, Norah opted for the local coffee shop while Ed and I did a mini-hike along the coast. Breathtaking scenery, ancient ruin of a church, mud, and it felt good to really stretch our legs.

Rain off and on throughout the day, gentle, and did not interfere with our sightseeing. Most folks here just wear a mac and don’t bother with umbrellas. In the country, wellies are the foot fashion.

Dinner at Peppers, the local fine-dining place. Excellent food. Norah and Ed enjoyed cheddar soufflé, sea bass and I had a vegetarian concoction with lentils and carrots. Best was the sauvignon blanc – pleasant change from beer and worthy of a second glass for dessert. Norah enjoyed chocolate fondant and Ed a blueberry cheesecake. We don’t lack for good food. I don’t even remember where and what we ate for lunch today, but trust me, we did enjoy it.

Tomb of a royal Welsh knight - St. David's

View down the cliffs on our coastal hike

Day 9, September 29, 2016 – Conwy to Fishguard

October 2, 2016 Ann Boland

Pentower B&B from the lawn.  The tower was in our room.  More photos below the post — Pentower B&B from the lawn. The tower was in our room. More photos below the post

We retrace our path through the Vale of Conwy and Snowdonia, as beautiful as ever. Today, it’s sunny, so we see higher peaks and broader vistas. We are heading south on the A470 till it meets the A487 and we begin our swing west, towards the Irish Sea. We stop for lunch at Aberyswyth. (pronounced abe-res-weth, I think. The beginning A is short, accent on the second syllable.) Nothing exceptional we could find about the town, though there is a National Portrait Museum that we should visit another time. It seems to be a university town as well.

We are continually boggled about directions. Stopped at a petrol station, coming off a two lane road. When we went to leave, we could not remember which way we were going and had to meekly go back to the cashier and ask for the direction to Fishgard. Ed does a great job driving, but, as we all would, reverts to the U.S. driving reflex of pulling to the right rather than the left when confronted with a potential driving crisis. Norah survives by riding in the back seat with her eyes closed. I try not to nag…

One of the highlights was passing The Man with a Cross. http://daibach-welldigger.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/the-man-with-cross.html
We found him complete with entourage of piccolo player, Scottie dog and pilgrim-looking fellow. A welcome break from the green vistas and sheep.

Our first glimpse of the Irish Sea is beautiful, and we track it most of the way south, arriving early evening at Pentower, our B&B in Fishguard. Beautiful place. We have been so fortunate with our accommodation thus far. I trust Trip Advisor and try to go with their top picks. Pentower was the highest recommended and with good reason. Beautiful location overlooking the port, lovely rooms and Tony and Mary are gracious hosts. Our first dinner was sandwiches we packed from Conwy, relaxing in the sitting area overlooking the Sea. Perfect!

The only graffiti we have seen in our entire trip.  On the side of an abandoned caravan.  Roads are in remarkable condition.  Rarely do you see litter and even rarer is a roadside ad or billboard. — The only graffiti we have seen in our entire trip. On the side of an abandoned caravan. Roads are in remarkable condition. Rarely do you see litter and even rarer is a roadside ad or billboard.

No, I'm not likely to trespass on the utility substation.

Norah's fireplace with a peek into her loo

Dining room and sitting area overlooking the port at Pentower

"London" by Edward Rutherfurd, (Ballantine, 1997)

October 1, 2016 Ann Boland

Enjoyed all 1124 pages of this monumental historical novel. Rutherfurd knows how to use the “smoking gun” every one or two centuries to drive the plot through the city's story. In four days we will arrive in London after two wonderful weeks in Wales. This book prepared me to have a better appreciation of the history, people and geography. A must read if you will be visiting London.

Day 8, September 28, 2016 – In Conwy

October 1, 2016 Ann Boland

Into Conwy Castle - more photos follow post

We are off to day for the Conwy Castle, built in the 13th Century by King Edward I as part of his fortifications of the west coast, and to keep those nasty Welsh under control. Amazing place, most of the stone work intact, and you can easily see notches for floor trusses throughout. If you have read David Macaulay’s Castle, you would swear this is his model. The book is about how to build a castle. Ed and I did all the up and down towers. Doubt that we will ever again see such a grand piece of history.

This from Wikipedia…”Constructed as part of a wider project to create the walled town of Conwy, the combined defences cost around £15,000, a huge sum for the period. Over the next few centuries, the castle played an important part in several wars. It withstood the siege of Madog ap Llywelyn in the winter of 1294–95, acted as a temporary haven for Richard II in 1399 and was held for several months by forces loyal to Owain Glyndŵr in 1401.

Following the outbreak of the English Civil War in 1642, the castle was held by forces loyal to Charles I, holding out until 1646 when it surrendered to the Parliamentary armies. In the aftermath the castle was partially slighted by Parliament to prevent it being used in any further revolt, and was finally completely ruined in 1665 when its remaining iron and lead was stripped and sold off. Conwy Castle became an attractive destination for painters in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Visitor numbers grew and initial restoration work was carried out in the second half of the 19th century. In the 21st century the ruined castle is managed by Cadw as a tourist attraction.”

From the castle, we went up into the High Street to Plas Mawr, intact home built in the 1580’s by Robert Gwinn, a crony of royalty who amassed wealth in the form of farms, the wool trade, and payments from his royal lords, and he married well – twice. It’s a wonderful insight into how the upper middle class lived circa Henry VIII and Elizabeth I. Not bad.

Lunched at a pub, Norah and Ed having fish and chips and I a vegetable tagine and my first ½ pint of bitter. It was bitter, but good – not hoppy. After Plas Mawr, we were exhausted, had a nap, then dinner and to bed.

Ed on a tower wall overlooking the harbor

Model of the castle to give you an idea of the layout and scope

Exterior Plas Mawr - looking head-on at the gate house.  The house runs up the street.  Note the Flemish influence on the architecture.  Gwinn was impressed by them in his travels. — Exterior Plas Mawr - looking head-on at the gate house. The house runs up the street. Note the Flemish influence on the architecture. Gwinn was impressed by them in his travels.

Day 7, September 27, 2016 – Drive to Conwy on the Northern Coast of Wales

September 29, 2016 Ann Boland

Aghhhh!  Where's our lane?  More photos below the post. — Aghhhh! Where's our lane? More photos below the post.

A tough drive for Ed, mostly on two lane highways, some of which narrow down to just enough space for two cars to pass, with stone walls on either side. Lots of small towns and villages, and the countryside beautiful all the way. The route took us through the Brecon Beacons National Park and then Snowdonia, with the highest peak (1,085 m) in the UK—Mt. Snowdon. We didn’t see any of the mountains due to light rain and fog.

Tried to lunch at a pub in one of the tiny towns along the route only to learn that Tuesday is the “pub closed” day in this part of Wales. We were advised to go into Newtown, a market town that would have open pubs and it was market day! A delightful lady led us from the car park to the High Street where we selected The Black Boy as our lunch destination. Without her crafty short cuts, we could still be looking for a pub. The Welsh are friendly and helpful – without exception.

The pub takes its name from chimney sweeps. Because it was market day, the joint was jumping. I ordered a pint of something that looked good on another table – a tall, golden glass of Strongbow. My first taste said, “This is not beer, but something so lovely and delightful on the palate that it could only be Welsh cider”. A delicious discovery. Norah was the adventurous eater, ordering cawl, a Welsh lamb stew – tasty. As we returned to the car, we purchased a quart of strawberries and a box of large apricots that I mistook for nectarines. Both were wonderful.

Driving into Conwy was amazing. A huge castle dominates the view and mostly intact walls circle the old town. We set our navigation system for the post code of the house we rented, but this takes us only within a block or so. There are no street numbers in these old towns, only street names that are well hidden and the name of the house, Isallt.

The streets are so narrow, thankfully one-way, with parking allowed on one side, so you have only one lane for driving. We did stop for directions but our “guide” was a non-native English speaker, which only confused us – as we probably confused him. Fortunately, we found a parking space on the High Street and by carefully checking the tiny map given us by the Isallt owners, learned we were only a block or so away from the house. We walked there, were able to enter – now how to drive there? Due to all the one-ways and one lanes, it looked about mile to travel, added tothat we would only be able to unload the car in front of the house. Then we had to park it somewhere.

We were told by the owners that parking was in the city lot several blocks away, but Ed scored a space on the street adjoining Isallt’s that he claimed by backing into it (the wrong way, of course) off the High Street. The Volvo is cursed with a terrible turning radius and that huge pillar directly in the driver’s line of sight to the right. After much back and forth accompanied by shouting from Ann (outside and trying to direct) to Ed (inside and with the windows closed for the first pass so we could not communicate at all), Ed brought the beast to heel.

We hauled our gear (kit here) up a steep (but thankfully short) hill to our street then a short way down to Isallt. It’s a comfy old place, built in 1847. Narrow, steep stairs, tiny rooms, but home for the next two nights. There are two bedrooms up, with a shared, nicely remodeled bath. Down are living room, dining room, remodeled kitchen, a miniscule ½ bath (had to leave the door open to use it) and a serviceable little gravel-paved walled patio (garden) . . . nice for a sit in the fresh air.

We struggled a bit with an oven that did not work and no wi-fi. But the owners fixed these the next day. Beds comfy and shortly after Tesco purchased dinners and a huge fruit salad, we retire.

St.  Edward, our driver — St. Edward, our driver

Yes, the sides of the bridge come right down into the road lanes...

Entering Conwy - town walls to the far left, castle next to it and a large construction project under wraps - or maybe Christo is visiting.

Isallt -note the slope of the street in front.

Day 6, September 26, 2016 – Recuperating from Cardiff

September 28, 2016 Ann Boland

Don't every buy this car!  Volvo D60 small SUV. Look at that column on the driver's side obscuring your view when you make a right hand turn.  And, it's tiny inside.  Lots of room in the way back, wish they had put about five inches o… — Don't every buy this car! Volvo D60 small SUV. Look at that column on the driver's side obscuring your view when you make a right hand turn. And, it's tiny inside. Lots of room in the way back, wish they had put about five inches of it into passenger comfort.

Rain started yesterday evening and continued most of today. Since our plan was to relax, do laundry and make a run to Tesco, the weather was cooperating. Feeling brave, Norah and I set off, giving Ed a break from driving. The Tesco is five minutes and two roundabouts away.

Half an hour later we returned to the cottage to ask Ed to please drive us to Tesco and pick us up. We could not find it! Defeated by the roundabouts. We didn’t have the post code to put into the navigation system to get us to Tesco, but we did have “home” programmed, so that is where we went.

Norah and I did our little shopping, enjoyed a quiet cup of tea in their café and returned home for more relaxing. Moral of the story, let Ed drive.

Day 5, September 25, 2016 – First trip to Cardiff

September 26, 2016 Ann Boland

Smoking room at Cardiff Castle - more photos follow the post

To spare Ed a possible heart attack, we travel to and from Cardiff (about ten miles) via taxi. Our first stop is Cardiff Castle. Per usual, I did no real research prior to this trip, so everything’s a bit of a surprise. Expected the castle to be Norman-ish and medieval. Turns out it is built on Roman ruins, and there was a Norman castle and a medieval one, but what we visit is a completely new structure built circa 1875 by the Third Marquess of Bute, the real money family in Cardiff – fortune based on coal, shipping, railroads to haul coal, etc. It’s the vision of Bute and his architect, William Burgess, of what a medieval castle would be like – but their result is over the top Disneyland. Other than the fact that there is just too much of everything, the details are magnificent, the artistry stunning. And the family only lived there six weeks a year. When the tax reforms came after WWII and the UK nationalized the coal mines, the Butes bailed and gave the castle and the grounds to the City of Cardiff. Probably a good deal all around.

There is a good piece of Norman and medieval architecture on the grounds -- the Keep. Built on a man-made hill using dirt from digging the huge moat, it is a stone fortress with living quarters, dating to the twelfth century. This replaced a wooden fortress. Ah, real history. Ed and I made it up the 100 tiny, steep stairs to overlook Cardiff. Expected to be able to see the river, or the sea, but only a pedestrian view of a not very attractive city. Nice parks to the north.

After the castle, we did the obligatory open top bus tour. This is not a lovely city. The bay and docklands, which I expected to be on open water, are newer buildings, urban-redevelopment, some on inlets, most on landfill. There were real docks in the distance, but not on the tour route.

Next, the Portuguese Bakery, just across from the Castle. Beautiful pastries which we purchased for several night’s desserts.

Next, the highlight of the day, “Polyphony down the Pub”. We wanted to hear choral music while in Cardiff. The area is known for it. When I Googled “choral music Cardiff”, PDTP came up – and it is amateur singers of polyphonic music gathering in a pub for a three hour sing. Amazing, fun and such wonderful music. I recorded some of the pieces. Since most had not done these works before, the beauty they produced was even more admirable. Of course, two pints of Heinekens for me only made it lovelier. There will be a PDTH while we are in London. Don’t know yet whether it will fit our schedule.

Looklng down Duke Street outside of Rummer Pub

Rummer Pub, meeting place of Polyphony down the Pub

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